{"id":5040,"date":"2019-01-12T11:19:06","date_gmt":"2019-01-12T11:19:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lacortedelgusto.com\/post\/\/the-times-forget-tuscany-discover-the-hills-and-beaches-of-le-marche-italys-secret-region\/"},"modified":"2025-04-08T14:51:57","modified_gmt":"2025-04-08T14:51:57","slug":"the-times-forget-tuscany-discover-the-hills-and-beaches-of-le-marche-italys-secret-region","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lacortedelgusto.com\/nl\/post\/news-nl\/the-times-forget-tuscany-discover-the-hills-and-beaches-of-le-marche-italys-secret-region\/","title":{"rendered":"The Times \u2013 Vergeet Toscane \u2013 ontdek de heuvels en stranden van Le Marche, de geheime regio van Itali\u00eb"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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SPECIALE ITALI\u00cb 2019
Vergeet Toscane: ontdek de heuvels en stranden van Le Marche, de geheime regio van Itali\u00eb<\/p>\n

Vermijd de drukte van Chiantishire en ervaar het agriturismo, het middeleeuwse stadje Urbino en dineer op het strand bij Portonovo
Mijn Aimaro Ogden<\/p>\n

13 januari 2019, 12:01 uur, The Sunday Times<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Paradijs en heuvel: middeleeuws Urbino<\/h4>\n

Laten we de naam verduidelijken: het wordt uitgesproken als “lay-mar-kay”, maar de Engelsen noemen het Marche. Deze oostelijke regio heeft altijd aan de randen gelegen, ooit een grensgebied van de grote Pauselijke Staten en tegenwoordig verwaarloosd ten gunste van Toscane en Umbri\u00eb, de meer zichtbare buren. En dat is natuurlijk alleen maar beter voor de bezoekers.<\/p>\n

Omgeven door bergen en zee is Le Marche het meest ruige Itali\u00eb van allemaal. De heuvels in het binnenland zijn een vruchtbare bodem voor agritoerisme. Bij Il Tiglio, aan de voet van het Sibillini-gebergte, eet u met de hand gefokte kip en verse groenten uit de tuin, geserveerd door boeren uit de regio Marche (\u00a3 27 per persoon, B&B; iltiglioagriturismo.it). Of u kunt het beste van de 177 kilometer lange rotsachtige Adriatische kustlijn verkennen, bezaaid met ongerepte stranden in de staatsparken Conero en San Bartolo. De middeleeuwse steden Urbino en Recanati behoren tot de meest fascinerende van Toscane: ze bieden verfijnde kunst en architectuur, lage prijzen en nergens een wachtrij.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Ontbrekende vrede: het rustige strand van Fiorenzuola di Focara<\/h4>\n

Wat te doen<\/strong>
De route start in Urbino, de culturele hoofdstad van de regio Marche. De pracht en praal van het gebouw is te danken aan Federico da Montefeltro, soldaat, geleerde en echte renaissanceman: het elegante Palazzo Ducale herbergt de uitzonderlijke collectie van de Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, met onder meer werken van Titiaan en Rafa\u00ebl (\u00a3 8; gallerianazionalemarche.it).<\/p>\n

De geplaveide straten, grote paleizen en verborgen binnenplaatsen van de stad bieden u af en toe verrassende uitzichten op de heuvels daarachter. Bezoek de 200 jaar oude botanische tuinen van Pierina Scaramella, een exotische stedelijke oase, of kies uit de kerken: de beste zijn de oratoria van San Giovanni Battista, met fresco’s van het leven van Johannes de Doper door de gebroeders Salimbeni, en San Giuseppe, waar de gebeeldhouwde Geboorte van Christus van Federico Brandani een lust voor het oog is. Stop voor een espresso bij Camera a Sud, een kleine bar met een grote kroonluchter en een nog grotere ontvangst (Via Bramante Donato 14).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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DE BESTE PLEKKEN OM OP VAKANTIE TE GAAN<\/strong><\/h4>\n

De beste vakanties in Itali\u00eb<\/strong>
Klaar voor een vleugje dolce vita? Wij hebben alles wat u moet weten om de perfecte reis te plannen<\/p>\n

Onze ultieme<\/strong> reisgids<\/p>\n

Op 90 minuten rijden naar het zuiden ligt Recanati, de geboorteplaats van Giacomo Leopardi, een van de grootste dichters van Itali\u00eb. Begin met een slaapmutsje op de krukken buiten Caf\u00e9 de la Paix, op het mooie plein dat zijn naam draagt \u200b\u200b(aperitieven vanaf \u00a33; facebook.com). Fragmenten uit het werk van de dichter zijn overal in de stad te vinden. Zijn huis, Casa Leopardi, met zijn 19e-eeuwse bibliotheek, is open voor bezoekers (\u00a3 6; giacomoleopardi.it).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mis tijdens uw verblijf ook het museum Villa Colloredo Mels niet, dat op 20 minuten loopafstand ligt. Het hoogtepunt van het veelluik van de renaissanceportrettist Lorenzo Lotto is een ontroerende Piet\u00e0 (\u00a39; villacolloredomels.it).<\/p>\n

De pracht van Le Marche reikt echter verder dan het culturele erfgoed. Het Monti Sibillini Nationaal Park, op 90 minuten rijden naar het zuiden, is onderdeel van de Apennijnen en heeft bergtoppen tot wel 2400 meter hoog, gletsjermeren en u kunt er arenden, wolven en wilde katten spotten. Het is het beste om een \u200b\u200boffici\u00eble gids mee te nemen, want het is daar echt wild (vanaf \u00a318 per persoon; quattropassi.org).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kerststal van Federico Brandani in het Oratorium van San Giuseppe, Urbino<\/em><\/p>\n

De paden die rond Monte Conero aan de kust slingeren, zijn veel gemakkelijker. Dan. Wandelroute 301 is een twee uur durende wandeling naar de top, op een hoogte van bijna 585 meter, met uitzicht op de kustplaats Portonovo en het strand van Mezzavalle, en de turquoise Adriatische Zee daarachter. Als u geen last heeft van hoogtevrees, probeer dan de grotten van Frasassi, een buitenaards grottencomplex ten zuidwesten van Ancona (rondleiding \u00a316; frasassi.com).<\/p>\n

Als u meer van stranden houdt, zult u iets harder moeten werken om het beste van Le Marche te bereiken. Mensen met jonge kinderen geven misschien de voorkeur aan het comfort van de strandclubs in de badplaats Senigallia, maar voor iets wilders kunt u beter naar het noorden gaan, naar Pesaro en het San Bartolo State Park (parcosanbartolo.it). Fiorenzuola di Focara heeft een bloemenweide op 20 minuten lopen van het centrum langs de Sentiero dell’Amore. Buiten juli en augustus is het mogelijk dat u hier alleen bent.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Nationaal park Sibillini-gebergte, in de Apennijnen<\/em><\/p>\n

Terug naar het natuurreservaat Monte Conero kunt u de stranden rond Sirolo bezoeken. Wandel door de bossen van het Parco della Repubblica naar het zand van San Michele. Vanaf hier kunt u met de boot naar Le Due Sorelle varen. Deze plaats dankt zijn naam aan de witte rotsen die aan het einde van de baai uit de zee steken. Stop hier of zwem om de hoek naar Cava Davanzali, voor een prachtig uitzicht en rust (\u00a3 23 retour; traghettatoridelconero.it).<\/p>\n

Wat te eten<\/strong>
In Le Marche zul je zeker niet verhongeren. In het kleine kustplaatsje Senigallia is er het uitstekende Madonnina del Pescatore van Moreno Cedroni (proeverijmenu vanaf \u00a3 110; morenocedroni.it), evenals het met drie Michelin-sterren bekroonde Uliassi aan het strand, met een voortreffelijk ‘laboratorium’-proeverijmenu (\u00a3 136; uliassi.it).<\/p>\n

La Bottega del Villaggio in Recanati is het hobbyproject van een hongerige jager, Giuseppe Clementoni. In zijn kleine osteria serveert hij klassieke lokale gerechten (hoofdgerechten vanaf \u00a39; facebook.com).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Op het strand: Clandestino van chef-kok Moreno Cedroni<\/strong><\/p>\n

In de kleine baai van Portonovo serveert Il Laghetto verse mosselen, octopus en garnalen aan tafeltjes op het strand (hoofdgerechten vanaf \u00a310; illaghetto.com). U kunt er ook voor kiezen om vanaf hier over het ondiepe water te peddelen naar Moreno Cedroni’s Clandestino, een sushibar in hutstijl met wortels in de Marche. Probeer de pizza met makreel en burrata (hoofdgerechten vanaf \u00a3 14; morenocedroni.it).<\/p>\n

In Bargni di Serrungarina, een dorp ten oosten van Urbino, is Da Gustin de 12-zits buitenpost van de eetzaal van Virginio en Catia Baldelli’s B&B: ze eren de slow-food, zero-mile filosofie en produceren smakelijke lekkernijen zoals rundercarpaccio met witte truffel (hoofdgerechten vanaf \u00a3 6; dagustin.it).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Wandelingen aan de wilde kant in San Bartolo State Park<\/h4>\n

Waar te verblijven<\/strong>
Gallery Hotel Recanati is een voormalig seminarie uit de 17e eeuw met een schitterend uitzicht (tweepersoonskamers vanaf \u00a367, B&B; ghr.it).<\/p>\n

Voor een nachtje in Urbino kunt u terecht in SanPolo 1544, een kamer in 16e-eeuwse stijl die u kunt huren in een elegant palazzo (tweepersoonskamers vanaf \u00a3108, B&B; sanpolo1544.it).<\/p>\n

Of ga richting de kust: in het Locanda Rocco met zeven kamers, aan de rand van het middeleeuwse Sirolo in Conero State Park, is de inrichting vrolijk en de service vriendelijk (tweepersoonskamers vanaf \u00a3106, B&B; locandarocco.it). In het nabijgelegen Portonovo ligt het door een familie gerunde Hotel Emilia met 30 kamers, een tuin op de klif en een zwembad (tweepersoonskamers vanaf \u00a3124, B&B; hotelemilia.com).<\/p>\n

Hoe er te komen<\/strong>
Ryanair vliegt van Stansted naar Ancona. Of probeer easyJet.<\/p>\n

Mia Aimaro Ogden was te gast bij het Gallery Hotel Recanati en Kirker Holidays, dat zeven nachten in Le Marche aanbiedt vanaf \u00a3 1.198 per persoon, inclusief retourvluchten en autohuur (kirkerholidays.com)<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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ITALY SPECIAL 2019
Forget Tuscany \u2013 discover the hills and beaches of Le Marche, Italy\u2019s secret region<\/p>\n\n

Avoid the crowds of Chiantishire and experience agritourism, the medieval city of Urbino and dining on the sand in Portonovo
Mia Aimaro Ogden<\/p>\n\n

January 13 2019, 12:01am, The Sunday Times<\/p>\n

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Heaven and hill: medieval UrbinoGETTY
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Let\u2019s get the name straight: it\u2019s pronounced \u201clay-mar-kay\u201d, but the British call it the Marches. This eastern region has always existed on the sidelines, at one time the borderlands of the great Papal States and neglected today in favour of Tuscany and Umbria, its showier neighbours. Which is all the better for visitors.<\/p>\n\n

Hemmed in by mountains and sea, Le Marche is Italy at its rawest, and the hills of the interior are fertile ground for agritourism. At Il Tiglio, at the foot of the Monti Sibillini, you\u2019ll dine on hand-reared chicken and vegetables fresh from the garden, served by marchigianifarmers (\u00a327pp, B&B; iltiglioagriturismo.it). Or you can explore the best of the 110 miles of rocky Adriatic coastline, dotted with wild beaches in the Conero and San Bartolo state parks. The medieval hill towns of Urbino and Recanati are as charming as anything Tuscany can offer, with fine art and architecture, low prices and nary a queue in sight.<\/p>\n

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Missing peace: Fiorenzuola di Focara\u2019s tranquil beachALAMY<\/p>\n\n

What to do
Begin in Urbino, Le Marche\u2019s cultural capital. Its splendour is all down to Federico da Montefeltro, soldier, scholar and true Renaissance man: his elegant Palazzo Ducale hosts the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche\u2019s exceptional collection, including works by Titian and Raphael (\u00a38; gallerianazionalemarche.it).<\/p>\n\n

The cobbled streets, grand palazzos and hidden courtyards of the town occasionally grant you startling views to the hills beyond. Seek out the 200-year-old botanical gardens of Pierina Scaramella, an exotic urban oasis, or take your pick of the churches: the best are the oratories of San Giovanni Battista, with frescoes of the life of John the Baptist by the brothers Salimbeni, and San Giuseppe, where the sculpted Nativity by Federico Brandani is a delight. Stop for an espresso at Camera a Sud, a little bar with a big chandelier and an even bigger welcome (Via Bramante Donato 14).<\/p>\n

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BEST PLACES TO GO ON HOLIDAY
The best holidays in Italy
Ready for a touch of la dolce vita? We have everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip<\/p>\n\n

Our ultimate travel guide<\/p>\n\n

A 90-minute drive south is Recanati, the birthplace of Giacomo Leopardi, one of Italy\u2019s greatest poets. Start with a snifter on the stools outside Cafe de la Paix, on the pretty piazza that bears his name (aperitivi from \u00a33; facebook.com). Excerpts from the poet\u2019s works are printed all over town. His home, Casa Leopardi, with its 19th-century library, is open to visitors (\u00a36; giacomoleopardi.it).<\/p>\n

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While you\u2019re here, don\u2019t miss the museum in Villa Colloredo Mels, a 20-minute walk away. The highlight of the Renaissance portraitist Lorenzo Lotto\u2019s polyptych here is a moving piet\u00e0 (\u00a39; villacolloredomels.it).<\/p>\n\n

The splendour of Le Marche extends beyond its cultural heritage, though. The Monti Sibillini National Park, a 90-minute drive to the south, is part of the Apennine Mountains, with peaks up to 8,000ft, glacial lakes and glimpses of eagles, wolves and wildcats. It\u2019s best to take an official guide, as it\u2019s wild up there (from \u00a318pp; quattropassi.org).<\/p>\n

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Federico Brandani\u2019s Nativity scene at the oratory of San Giuseppe, UrbinoMARKA\/UIG<\/p>\n\n

The trails that wind around Monte Conero, on the coast, are a lot easier. No 301 is a two-hour trek to the top, at a height of nearly 1,900ft, with views of the seaside town of Portonovo and Mezzavalle beach, as well as the turquoise Adriatic beyond. If you don\u2019t have a head for heights, try the Grotte di Frasassi, an otherworldly cave complex southwest of Ancona (guided tour \u00a316; frasassi.com).<\/p>\n\n

If beaches are more your thing, you\u2019ll need to put in some effort to get to Le Marche\u2019s best. Those with small children might prefer the ease of the beach clubs in the resort town of Senigallia, but for something a bit wilder, head north to Pesaro and the San Bartolo state park (parcosanbartolo.it). Fiorenzuola di Focara has a wildflower-strewn strand a 20-minute walk from the centre along the Sentiero dell\u2019Amore. Outside July and August, you might well be alone here.<\/p>\n

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Monti Sibillini National Park, in the Apennine MountainsDANITA DELIMONT\/GETTY<\/p>\n\n

Back in the nature reserve of Monte Conero, try the beaches around Sirolo. Walk down through the woods of Parco della Repubblica to the sands of San Michele. From here, you can pick up a boat to Le Due Sorelle (the Two Sisters), named after the white stacks jutting from the sea at the end of the cove. Stop here or swim round the corner to the Cava Davanzali, for glorious views and solitude (\u00a323 return; traghettatoridelconero.it).<\/p>\n\n

What to eat
You certainly won\u2019t starve in Le Marche. In the small coastal town of Senigallia, there\u2019s Moreno Cedroni\u2019s top-notch Madonnina del Pescatore (tasting menu from \u00a3110; morenocedroni.it), as well as the three-Michelin-starred Uliassi, on the beach, with an exquisite \u201claboratory\u201d tasting menu (\u00a3136; uliassi.it).<\/p>\n\n

The Bottega del Villaggio, in Recanati, is the pet project of a hungry hunter, Giuseppe Clementoni, whose tiny osteria serves local classics (mains from \u00a39; facebook.com).<\/p>\n

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On the beach: chef Moreno Cedroni\u2019s Clandestino
On the beach: chef Moreno Cedroni\u2019s ClandestinoGIORGIO FILIPPINI<\/p>\n\n

In Portonovo\u2019s tiny bay, Il Laghetto offers fresh clams, octopus and crayfish at tables on the sand (mains from \u00a310; illaghetto.com). Alternatively, paddle through the shallows from here to Moreno Cedroni\u2019s Clandestino, a shack-style \u201csushi\u201d bar with marchigianiroots. Try the pizzetta with mackerel and burrata (mains from \u00a314; morenocedroni.it).<\/p>\n\n

In Bargni di Serrungarina, a village east of Urbino, Da Gustin is the 12-cover outpost of Virginio and Catia Baldelli\u2019s B&B dining room: they honour the slow-food, zero-mile philosophy, producing tasty treats such as beef carpaccio with white truffles (mains from \u00a36; dagustin.it).<\/p>\n

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Walk on the wild side in San Bartolo state parkFRANK KRAHMER\/GETTY<\/p>\n\n

Where to stay
The Gallery Hotel Recanati is a 17th-century former seminary with huge views (doubles from \u00a367, B&B; ghr.it).<\/p>\n\n

For a night in Urbino, try SanPolo 1544, a 16th-century-style bedroom for hire in an elegant palazzo (double from \u00a3108, B&B; sanpolo1544.it).<\/p>\n\n

Or head to the coast: at the seven-room Locanda Rocco, on the edge of medieval Sirolo, in the Conero state park, the decor is fun and the service is friendly (doubles from \u00a3106, B&B; locandarocco.it). In nearby Portonovo, the 30-room Hotel Emilia is family-run, with a clifftop garden and pool (doubles from \u00a3124, B&B; hotelemilia.com).<\/p>\n\n

Getting there
Ryanair flies to Ancona from Stansted. Or try easyJet.<\/p>\n\n

Mia Aimaro Ogden was a guest of the Gallery Hotel Recanati and Kirker Holidays, which has seven nights in Le Marche from \u00a31,198pp, including return flights and car hire (kirkerholidays.com)<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

SPECIALE ITALI\u00cb 2019Vergeet Toscane: ontdek de heuvels en stranden van Le Marche, de geheime regio van Itali\u00eb Vermijd de drukte van Chiantishire en ervaar het agriturismo, het middeleeuwse stadje Urbino en dineer op het strand bij PortonovoMijn Aimaro Ogden 13 … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5041,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[112],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5040","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Times \u2013 Vergeet Toscane \u2013 ontdek de heuvels en stranden van Le Marche, de geheime regio van Itali\u00eb - La Corte del Gusto<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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