{"id":4071,"date":"2019-01-12T11:19:06","date_gmt":"2019-01-12T11:19:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lacortedelgusto.com\/?p=4071"},"modified":"2025-03-26T13:52:31","modified_gmt":"2025-03-26T13:52:31","slug":"the-times-forget-tuscany-discover-the-hills-and-beaches-of-le-marche-italys-secret-region","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lacortedelgusto.com\/it\/post\/news\/the-times-forget-tuscany-discover-the-hills-and-beaches-of-le-marche-italys-secret-region\/","title":{"rendered":"The Times \u2013 Forget Tuscany \u2013 scopri le colline e le spiagge delle Marche, la regione segreta d’Italia"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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SPECIALE ITALIA 2019
Dimentica la Toscana: scopri le colline e le spiagge delle Marche, la regione segreta d’Italia<\/p>\n

Evita la folla del Chiantishire e vivi l’agriturismo, la citt\u00e0 medievale di Urbino e cena sulla sabbia a Portonovo
Mia Aimaro Ogden<\/p>\n

13 gennaio 2019, 12:01, The Sunday Times<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Paradiso e collina: Urbino medievale<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Chiariamo il nome: si pronuncia “lay-mar-kay”, ma gli inglesi la chiamano Marche. Questa regione orientale \u00e8 sempre esistita ai margini, un tempo terra di confine dei grandi Stati Pontifici e oggi trascurata a favore della Toscana e dell’Umbria, i suoi vicini pi\u00f9 vistosi. Il che \u00e8 tanto meglio per i visitatori.<\/p>\n

Circondate da montagne e mare, le Marche sono l’Italia nella sua forma pi\u00f9 cruda e le colline dell’entroterra sono terreno fertile per l’agriturismo. A Il Tiglio, ai piedi dei Monti Sibillini, cenerai con pollo allevato a mano e verdure fresche dall’orto, servite da contadini marchigiani (\u00a327 a persona, B&B; iltiglioagriturismo.it). Oppure puoi esplorare il meglio delle 110 miglia di costa rocciosa adriatica, punteggiate da spiagge selvagge nei parchi statali del Conero e di San Bartolo. Le citt\u00e0 medievali di Urbino e Recanati sono tra le pi\u00f9 affascinanti della Toscana: offrono arte e architettura raffinate, prezzi bassi e nemmeno una coda in vista.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Pace mancante: la tranquilla spiaggia di Fiorenzuola di Focara<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Cosa fare<\/strong>
Inizia da Urbino, la capitale culturale delle Marche. Il suo splendore \u00e8 tutto merito di Federico da Montefeltro, soldato, studioso e vero uomo del Rinascimento: il suo elegante Palazzo Ducale ospita l’eccezionale collezione della Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, tra cui opere di Tiziano e Raffaello (\u00a38; gallerianazionalemarche.it).<\/p>\n

Le strade acciottolate, i grandi palazzi e i cortili nascosti della citt\u00e0 ti regalano occasionalmente viste sorprendenti sulle colline oltre. Cerca i giardini botanici di Pierina Scaramella, vecchi di 200 anni, un’oasi urbana esotica, o scegli le chiese: i migliori sono gli oratori di San Giovanni Battista, con affreschi della vita di Giovanni Battista dei fratelli Salimbeni, e San Giuseppe, dove la Nativit\u00e0 scolpita da Federico Brandani \u00e8 una delizia. Fermati per un espresso al Camera a Sud, un piccolo bar con un grande lampadario e un’accoglienza ancora pi\u00f9 grande (Via Bramante Donato 14).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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I MIGLIORI POSTI DOVE ANDARE IN VACANZA<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Le migliori vacanze in Italia<\/strong>
Pronti per un tocco di dolce vita? Abbiamo tutto ci\u00f2 che vi serve sapere per pianificare il viaggio perfetto<\/p>\n

La nostra guida turistica<\/strong> definitiva<\/p>\n

A 90 minuti di macchina verso sud si trova Recanati, il luogo di nascita di Giacomo Leopardi, uno dei pi\u00f9 grandi poeti italiani. Iniziate con un bicchierino sugli sgabelli fuori dal Caf\u00e9 de la Paix, nella graziosa piazza che porta il suo nome (aperitivi da \u00a3 3; facebook.com). Estratti delle opere del poeta sono stampati in tutta la citt\u00e0. La sua casa, Casa Leopardi, con la sua biblioteca del XIX secolo, \u00e8 aperta ai visitatori (\u00a3 6; giacomoleopardi.it).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mentre sei qui, non perderti il \u200b\u200bmuseo di Villa Colloredo Mels, a 20 minuti a piedi. Il pezzo forte del polittico del ritrattista rinascimentale Lorenzo Lotto \u00e8 una piet\u00e0 in movimento (\u00a3 9; villacolloredomels.it).<\/p>\n

Lo splendore delle Marche si estende oltre il suo patrimonio culturale, per\u00f2. Il Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, a 90 minuti di auto a sud, fa parte degli Appennini, con cime fino a 8.000 piedi, laghi glaciali e scorci di aquile, lupi e gatti selvatici. \u00c8 meglio prendere una guida ufficiale, perch\u00e9 lass\u00f9 \u00e8 selvaggio (da \u00a3 18 a persona; quattropassi.org).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Presepe di Federico Brandani all’oratorio di San Giuseppe, Urbino<\/em><\/p>\n

I sentieri che si snodano attorno al Monte Conero, sulla costa, sono molto pi\u00f9 facili. Il n. 301 \u00e8 un’escursione di due ore fino alla cima, a un’altezza di quasi 1.900 piedi, con vista sulla citt\u00e0 costiera di Portonovo e sulla spiaggia di Mezzavalle, cos\u00ec come sul turchese Adriatico oltre. Se non soffrite di vertigini, provate le Grotte di Frasassi, un complesso di grotte ultraterrene a sud-ovest di Ancona (visita guidata \u00a3 16; frasassi.com).<\/p>\n

Se le spiagge sono pi\u00f9 la vostra passione, dovrete impegnarvi un po’ per raggiungere il meglio delle Marche. Chi ha bambini piccoli potrebbe preferire la comodit\u00e0 dei beach club nella citt\u00e0 turistica di Senigallia, ma per qualcosa di un po’ pi\u00f9 selvaggio, dirigetevi a nord verso Pesaro e il parco statale di San Bartolo (parcosanbartolo.it). Fiorenzuola di Focara ha una distesa di fiori selvatici a 20 minuti a piedi dal centro lungo il Sentiero dell\u2019Amore. Fuori da luglio e agosto, potresti essere solo qui.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, negli Appennini<\/em><\/p>\n

Tornando nella riserva naturale del Monte Conero, provate le spiagge intorno a Sirolo. Camminate attraverso i boschi del Parco della Repubblica fino alle sabbie di San Michele. Da qui, potete prendere una barca per Le Due Sorelle, che prendono il nome dai faraglioni bianchi che sporgono dal mare alla fine della baia. Fermatevi qui o nuotate dietro l’angolo fino alla Cava Davanzali, per viste magnifiche e solitudine (\u00a323 andata e ritorno; traghettatoridelconero.it).<\/p>\n

Cosa mangiare<\/strong>
Di sicuro non morirete di fame nelle Marche. Nella piccola citt\u00e0 costiera di Senigallia, c’\u00e8 l’eccellente Madonnina del Pescatore di Moreno Cedroni (men\u00f9 degustazione da \u00a3110; morenocedroni.it), cos\u00ec come l’Uliassi, tre stelle Michelin, sulla spiaggia, con uno squisito men\u00f9 degustazione “laboratorio” (\u00a3136; uliassi.it).<\/p>\n

La Bottega del Villaggio, a Recanati, \u00e8 il progetto preferito di un cacciatore affamato, Giuseppe Clementoni, la cui piccola osteria serve piatti classici locali (portate principali a partire da \u00a3 9; facebook.com).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Sulla spiaggia: il Clandestino dello chef Moreno Cedron<\/strong>i<\/p>\n

Nella piccola baia di Portonovo, Il Laghetto offre vongole fresche, polpi e gamberi ai tavoli sulla sabbia (portate principali da \u00a3 10; illaghetto.com). In alternativa, pagaiate attraverso le secche da qui fino al Clandestino di Moreno Cedroni, un bar “sushi” in stile baracca con radici marchigiane. Provate la pizzetta con sgombro e burrata (portate principali da \u00a3 14; morenocedroni.it).<\/p>\n

A Bargni di Serrungarina, un villaggio a est di Urbino, Da Gustin \u00e8 l’avamposto da 12 coperti della sala da pranzo del B&B di Virginio e Catia Baldelli: onorano la filosofia slow-food e a chilometro zero, producendo gustose prelibatezze come il carpaccio di manzo con tartufo bianco (portate principali da \u00a3 6; dagustin.it).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Passeggiate nel lato selvaggio del parco statale di San Bartolo<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Dove alloggiare<\/strong>
Il Gallery Hotel Recanati \u00e8 un ex seminario del XVII secolo con viste immense (doppie da \u00a3 67, B&B; ghr.it).<\/p>\n

Per una notte a Urbino, provate il SanPolo 1544, una camera in stile XVI secolo in affitto in un elegante palazzo (doppie da \u00a3 108, B&B; sanpolo1544.it).<\/p>\n

Oppure dirigetevi verso la costa: alla Locanda Rocco con sette camere, ai margini della medievale Sirolo, nel parco statale del Conero, l’arredamento \u00e8 divertente e il servizio \u00e8 cordiale (doppie da \u00a3 106, B&B; locandarocco.it). Nella vicina Portonovo, l’Hotel Emilia con 30 camere \u00e8 a conduzione familiare, con un giardino sulla scogliera e una piscina (doppie da \u00a3 124, B&B; hotelemilia.com).<\/p>\n

Come arrivare<\/strong>
Ryanair vola ad Ancona da Stansted. Oppure prova easyJet.<\/p>\n

Mia Aimaro Ogden \u00e8 stata ospite del Gallery Hotel Recanati e Kirker Holidays, che offre sette notti nelle Marche a partire da \u00a3 1.198 a persona, inclusi voli di andata e ritorno e noleggio auto (kirkerholidays.com)<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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ITALY SPECIAL 2019
Forget Tuscany \u2013 discover the hills and beaches of Le Marche, Italy\u2019s secret region<\/p>\n\n

Avoid the crowds of Chiantishire and experience agritourism, the medieval city of Urbino and dining on the sand in Portonovo
Mia Aimaro Ogden<\/p>\n\n

January 13 2019, 12:01am, The Sunday Times<\/p>\n

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Heaven and hill: medieval UrbinoGETTY
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Let\u2019s get the name straight: it\u2019s pronounced \u201clay-mar-kay\u201d, but the British call it the Marches. This eastern region has always existed on the sidelines, at one time the borderlands of the great Papal States and neglected today in favour of Tuscany and Umbria, its showier neighbours. Which is all the better for visitors.<\/p>\n\n

Hemmed in by mountains and sea, Le Marche is Italy at its rawest, and the hills of the interior are fertile ground for agritourism. At Il Tiglio, at the foot of the Monti Sibillini, you\u2019ll dine on hand-reared chicken and vegetables fresh from the garden, served by marchigianifarmers (\u00a327pp, B&B; iltiglioagriturismo.it). Or you can explore the best of the 110 miles of rocky Adriatic coastline, dotted with wild beaches in the Conero and San Bartolo state parks. The medieval hill towns of Urbino and Recanati are as charming as anything Tuscany can offer, with fine art and architecture, low prices and nary a queue in sight.<\/p>\n

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Missing peace: Fiorenzuola di Focara\u2019s tranquil beachALAMY<\/p>\n\n

What to do
Begin in Urbino, Le Marche\u2019s cultural capital. Its splendour is all down to Federico da Montefeltro, soldier, scholar and true Renaissance man: his elegant Palazzo Ducale hosts the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche\u2019s exceptional collection, including works by Titian and Raphael (\u00a38; gallerianazionalemarche.it).<\/p>\n\n

The cobbled streets, grand palazzos and hidden courtyards of the town occasionally grant you startling views to the hills beyond. Seek out the 200-year-old botanical gardens of Pierina Scaramella, an exotic urban oasis, or take your pick of the churches: the best are the oratories of San Giovanni Battista, with frescoes of the life of John the Baptist by the brothers Salimbeni, and San Giuseppe, where the sculpted Nativity by Federico Brandani is a delight. Stop for an espresso at Camera a Sud, a little bar with a big chandelier and an even bigger welcome (Via Bramante Donato 14).<\/p>\n

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BEST PLACES TO GO ON HOLIDAY
The best holidays in Italy
Ready for a touch of la dolce vita? We have everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip<\/p>\n\n

Our ultimate travel guide<\/p>\n\n

A 90-minute drive south is Recanati, the birthplace of Giacomo Leopardi, one of Italy\u2019s greatest poets. Start with a snifter on the stools outside Cafe de la Paix, on the pretty piazza that bears his name (aperitivi from \u00a33; facebook.com). Excerpts from the poet\u2019s works are printed all over town. His home, Casa Leopardi, with its 19th-century library, is open to visitors (\u00a36; giacomoleopardi.it).<\/p>\n

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While you\u2019re here, don\u2019t miss the museum in Villa Colloredo Mels, a 20-minute walk away. The highlight of the Renaissance portraitist Lorenzo Lotto\u2019s polyptych here is a moving piet\u00e0 (\u00a39; villacolloredomels.it).<\/p>\n\n

The splendour of Le Marche extends beyond its cultural heritage, though. The Monti Sibillini National Park, a 90-minute drive to the south, is part of the Apennine Mountains, with peaks up to 8,000ft, glacial lakes and glimpses of eagles, wolves and wildcats. It\u2019s best to take an official guide, as it\u2019s wild up there (from \u00a318pp; quattropassi.org).<\/p>\n

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Federico Brandani\u2019s Nativity scene at the oratory of San Giuseppe, UrbinoMARKA\/UIG<\/p>\n\n

The trails that wind around Monte Conero, on the coast, are a lot easier. No 301 is a two-hour trek to the top, at a height of nearly 1,900ft, with views of the seaside town of Portonovo and Mezzavalle beach, as well as the turquoise Adriatic beyond. If you don\u2019t have a head for heights, try the Grotte di Frasassi, an otherworldly cave complex southwest of Ancona (guided tour \u00a316; frasassi.com).<\/p>\n\n

If beaches are more your thing, you\u2019ll need to put in some effort to get to Le Marche\u2019s best. Those with small children might prefer the ease of the beach clubs in the resort town of Senigallia, but for something a bit wilder, head north to Pesaro and the San Bartolo state park (parcosanbartolo.it). Fiorenzuola di Focara has a wildflower-strewn strand a 20-minute walk from the centre along the Sentiero dell\u2019Amore. Outside July and August, you might well be alone here.<\/p>\n

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Monti Sibillini National Park, in the Apennine MountainsDANITA DELIMONT\/GETTY<\/p>\n\n

Back in the nature reserve of Monte Conero, try the beaches around Sirolo. Walk down through the woods of Parco della Repubblica to the sands of San Michele. From here, you can pick up a boat to Le Due Sorelle (the Two Sisters), named after the white stacks jutting from the sea at the end of the cove. Stop here or swim round the corner to the Cava Davanzali, for glorious views and solitude (\u00a323 return; traghettatoridelconero.it).<\/p>\n\n

What to eat
You certainly won\u2019t starve in Le Marche. In the small coastal town of Senigallia, there\u2019s Moreno Cedroni\u2019s top-notch Madonnina del Pescatore (tasting menu from \u00a3110; morenocedroni.it), as well as the three-Michelin-starred Uliassi, on the beach, with an exquisite \u201claboratory\u201d tasting menu (\u00a3136; uliassi.it).<\/p>\n\n

The Bottega del Villaggio, in Recanati, is the pet project of a hungry hunter, Giuseppe Clementoni, whose tiny osteria serves local classics (mains from \u00a39; facebook.com).<\/p>\n

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On the beach: chef Moreno Cedroni\u2019s Clandestino
On the beach: chef Moreno Cedroni\u2019s ClandestinoGIORGIO FILIPPINI<\/p>\n\n

In Portonovo\u2019s tiny bay, Il Laghetto offers fresh clams, octopus and crayfish at tables on the sand (mains from \u00a310; illaghetto.com). Alternatively, paddle through the shallows from here to Moreno Cedroni\u2019s Clandestino, a shack-style \u201csushi\u201d bar with marchigianiroots. Try the pizzetta with mackerel and burrata (mains from \u00a314; morenocedroni.it).<\/p>\n\n

In Bargni di Serrungarina, a village east of Urbino, Da Gustin is the 12-cover outpost of Virginio and Catia Baldelli\u2019s B&B dining room: they honour the slow-food, zero-mile philosophy, producing tasty treats such as beef carpaccio with white truffles (mains from \u00a36; dagustin.it).<\/p>\n

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Walk on the wild side in San Bartolo state parkFRANK KRAHMER\/GETTY<\/p>\n\n

Where to stay
The Gallery Hotel Recanati is a 17th-century former seminary with huge views (doubles from \u00a367, B&B; ghr.it).<\/p>\n\n

For a night in Urbino, try SanPolo 1544, a 16th-century-style bedroom for hire in an elegant palazzo (double from \u00a3108, B&B; sanpolo1544.it).<\/p>\n\n

Or head to the coast: at the seven-room Locanda Rocco, on the edge of medieval Sirolo, in the Conero state park, the decor is fun and the service is friendly (doubles from \u00a3106, B&B; locandarocco.it). In nearby Portonovo, the 30-room Hotel Emilia is family-run, with a clifftop garden and pool (doubles from \u00a3124, B&B; hotelemilia.com).<\/p>\n\n

Getting there
Ryanair flies to Ancona from Stansted. Or try easyJet.<\/p>\n\n

Mia Aimaro Ogden was a guest of the Gallery Hotel Recanati and Kirker Holidays, which has seven nights in Le Marche from \u00a31,198pp, including return flights and car hire (kirkerholidays.com)<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

SPECIALE ITALIA 2019Dimentica la Toscana: scopri le colline e le spiagge delle Marche, la regione segreta d’Italia Evita la folla del Chiantishire e vivi l’agriturismo, la citt\u00e0 medievale di Urbino e cena sulla sabbia a PortonovoMia Aimaro Ogden 13 gennaio … Read More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3903,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[112],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4071","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Times \u2013 Forget Tuscany \u2013 scopri le colline e le spiagge delle Marche, la regione segreta d'Italia - La Corte del Gusto<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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